And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). Being at ease doing this is why people talk a lot about the importance of relationship in bespoke too. Id say they are both very good. Subscribe now and save. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brands workshop in Chennai, India. Eventually, in a visit to London last summer, I had W & S make me a versatile grey flannel three-piece and I was extremely pleased: absolutely wonderful cut and fit, and exquisite hand finishing. I certainly couldnt see it in any of the fittings but its the exact same thing with both tailors. Whilst acknowledging that the intent of any bespoke tailoring is to enhance and flatter the wearer, I would be interested to read more about the tricks of the trade used to mitigate different physical challenges. Really great blog. Hi Lewis, Another is they come and go so a review is only useful for so long. W&S seem to be a interesting chaps.. Thanks. This is a part of a series on a pair of bespoke trousers made for me by the tailor house Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Im glad to say that this promise is fulfilled. Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter? That pocket square fold is on point. Also, in terms of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking. We wanted clients to be able to fit garments quickly while travel is open. So, if youre intrigued to try an impeccable bespoke tailor with impressive ethical credentials, you know where to go. I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? I initially thought I would go for A&S as I love the style and think they would guide me through the process extremely well. And no, it wouldnt be vastly different from KH&L, More importantly, for that price range this is certainly the best value suit out there, and it sounds like one that would suit your style as well. Another question Simon. I am unsatisfied considering GB is 850 but their forte is not in this style of tailoring. Not really Im afraid Chris I havent had a chance to try it or look through the process in detail. From the sounds of it you were quite impressed with the offshore made suit. There were two more fittings in NY with Bob (got the suit at the end of the second one). Or take in some pictures of styles you like. This is very close to my ideal suit, though I wouldnt get the lap seam on the back, and Id get flapped hacking pockets. Do you still recommend visiting the tailoring/shoemaking house itself, at least for initial consultation? It almost feels like cheating. Just 30 Read More, Savile Row Savile Row is a street located in the center of London, United Kingdom. Located in the heart of London's Mayfair district, Savile Row is home to some of the world's most prestigious men's fashion designers and tailors. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. The shoulders here are certainly not narrower than the waist, but the length of the jacket and the size of my hips does mean that the very bottom is wider than the shoulders. I have 2 W+S suits now and have been happy with both (both business suits). Was this cloth amongst their offerings at their base price or was there a cost supplement? From left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan. Bravo! I specifically dont want to blame either as certainly most clients are quite satisfied. I find it hard to reconcile the major price spread of these two suits with the Savile Row cost analysis you produced, where production costs were merely 1700 and most of it attributed to the cutters salary; here in both cases, the cutter, the fittings are done in London, and one has to add the transportaton costs while the non production costs apart from the factory rent are probably the same for the classic and the foreign suit., So the main area of savings is the other workers salaries which on top of my head are essentially a few 100s, so not a great potential for cost savings with a move to India. Jennie Adamson et al. I would take it back in and talk to the tailor about it. The reality seems to be that you must thoroughly educate yourself regarding manufacture and design points, and have a clear sense for what you want, in order to get the most out of the process. The results are great and I would very much enjoy hearing how your experience is. And looking at her site, I have my fears she certainly seems to be a stylist rather than a cutter. ), Thanks for the recommendation of the neapolitan tailors. Yes I think so, it has a great feeling to it. Hi Simon, I know comparing tailors from Italy and England is like comparing apples and pears (style wise), but just from a quality perspective how would you compare Sartoria Vergallo to this W&S offering? And a pair of flannel trousers? After much internet research and reading your recommendation I have taken the plunge with W&S. Wow, I think this looks fabulous! I understand none of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob will be present for the initial consultation and measurement. 4,523 followers. whitcomb and shaftesbury Share Subscribe 66 Comments If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between 1000 and 3000 or so. I note your enthusiasm for W&S. This is definitely navy rather than blue Photography, light, white balance etc can change colours, particularly blues. What am I missing? Fashion Designer - Whitcom & Shaftesbury Several top brands including Dunhill, Gieves & Hawkes, and Ozwald Boateng offer this service. Hey Justin. On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? Got it, thanks. If you decide to trust one and go for it how far can you impose your ideas of cut and style on them? I guess its about having the knowledge and confidence to get the most out of them and the process. My worry for a business like W&S is that theyre underselling themselves the price seems too much of a bargain. Some advice if you would; Im looking to get a suit (tan cord) garment dyed thinking blue, dark green or dark grey (not to be worn for work). It does not matter if WS are getting some part of the work done in India, the suit looks fantastic in the photos. If not Grahame Browne has changed his pricing? At this stage of your life, I wouldnt stretch to one of the others. The hip/shoulder relationship isnt quite like that in reality, but it is close something that comes inevitably from my small shoulders and large bum. With this in mind, what difference (if any) would there be between a suit cut by a cutter who specialises in a particular house cut, and a cutter who deals with a wider range of styles? solito e.2500 for suit, e2100 for jacket. Very flattering! Among many others, it is known for the large number of ateliers located on it, Read More. Free shipping for many products! Ready-to-wear garments, no matter how well altered, can never be as accurately fitted as one made by a skilled craftsman who constructs it especially for your body. I am planning to order my first bespoke suit soon. Looking forward to know your thoughts. Predominantly a Savile Row style or do they stray into Neapolitan construction as well? Or are they at a much higher price point than W&S? Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. I will do something longer on his system though, so I can give as many details as possible. It is another interesting approach. Ah, no that was navy trousers, serge. Thanks and all the best, Michael. Whitcomb also recruited a third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour. Some of us surely do not desire to try out lots of tailors but love and romantically hatch the idea of naturally having your tailor where you get many different things from over the years and build a trusting relationship. Cloth - Suits Read More Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes. Really pleased although I think there might be some mistake I dont have a fitting in a toile. Am I safe to give them full and total control and have the suit made in their house style, or will I end up regretting it? Are there any other tailors in the Milan/Northern Italy area that I should consider as well, that would be great starting points to the high-end bespoke world? Thank you. Located in a charming building in the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile Row and Conduit Street. Ill reflect more on the overall style of Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, and where it sits relative to other tailors I have tried, when I publish the pictures of the Savile Row Bespoke suit. Very best. They certainly could, and Id say you should expect at least two fittings ideally three (with the last one being with a finished suit, but something small needs to be tweaked always a good idea to get that tweak, painful as it may be! Thanks, and great suggestions. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. And hands out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and style.. nice one. So should be here for the long term. I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. Yes, a small change in lapel width is fine. Hi Simon. To be worn with knit ties and open neck shirts to dinners and casual events in summer? Bespoke suits are custom-Made suits that are tailor-made to fit the specific measurements of the person ordering them. Thank you, As a general rule Id want to see the cutter, but in this case Id make an exception, given Bob and everyone else have worked so closely together for a long time. I dont know her which says something. Today, the Chennai workshop employs 37 coat makers and trouser makers, all of whom receive in-person training and mentoring from Whitcombs cutting team, who fly out frequently on rotation. Im sure youve mentioned it elsewhere but which of the Neapolitan tailors are you thinking of in particular? Coats Read More This article describes my way of creating a closet for a character. It sounds like you want something more structured. Hi Calvin, B) I think its worth avoiding where possible. Is your W&S suit cuted with a similar amount of drape or more? These Tailors Are Doing It Anyway. After realizing what such refined raiment can do for him both physically and psychologically, it is the rare man who does not become a convert for life. PREVIOUS NEXT Related Post Purely on craft, yes Id choose someone like Jennie. Before you raise an . Hi Simon, how does this classic bespoke service compare to Savile Row on after-sales servicing? However, how far does that extend to? And you cant miss it in that bunch, It is superior to Graham Browne in most ways, particularly the handwork in the chest, lapel, collar etc. So, the duo determined that theyd fulfill the role of giving clients good, honest guidance, before recruiting a team of Savile Row trained cutters and tailors, including John McCabe and Bob Bigg, highly experienced stalwarts of the Row with close to 120 years combined experience. Ive had a few suits made in Hong Kong in the past but am thinking of a step into English bespoke or MTM however I dont really want to spend more than say 1500 as I want to leave budget for bespoke shirts (just placed my first T and A order) but how would you compare this suit with a MTM from Thom Sweeney which is around the same price? This kind of service level is something that can quickly drop out with cheaper offerings. Once your account is created, you'll be logged-in to this account. Do you recommend against a tuxedo as a first commission from a tailor? They look very good and suit your face and style, Francois Pinton, though I wouldnt necessarily recommend them based in make. Do you think W&S is better value, better workmanship than Alexandra Wood ( do you know whether AW is bespoke proper, fully canvassed, basted etc ) ? LOVABLE BROGUE. You described some English suits as cuted with small drape (e.g. If the later, have you seen any examples? 1. This is one thing that has kept me reading your blog youre not a snob (in that way). Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style . This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. As ever a brief article on this subject would be highly appreciated! Richard. Much more Italian style, soft and more curved. Perhaps a little collection of posts around the issue would be good. I guess this is relevant to the greatest number of people in the context of a bespoke suit, and it would great to know what are the key points that should be thought about (choice of cloth etc.). In terms of house styling, who would you compare W&S to? Your green linen G&H suit is really close to what I like. Great post Simon, really enjoyed. Would you say W&S would be a sound option for someones first bespoke suit and if so, any advice on a maiden voyage such as this? I just wonder if for something traditional and rarer like morning dress they would be able to help guide me through the process as well as A&S. Im soon travelling to London, and am interested in a soft shouldered jacket or two. Just one point on pricing. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. We felt that lack of advice offered us a huge gap in the market.. Do you mind me asking what make your glasses are? This is the process by which my suit was also made. Im afraid its still some way off those at least in terms of finishing. how many weeks from measuring to first fitting, from first fitting to second fitting, etc. Id still call them an English tailor But its hard to say Id say buy whichever of the two you can stretch to. Every hem and lining felled by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands. Thank you for getting back to me. Could you give more information on the stitching point and the fit? There are cheap Neapolitan tailors coming to London use them instead if thats the look you want. in the style breakdown series. I also appreciate your point about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow, which is not something i had considered, but fully makes sense. As a far-flung western Canadian from the provinces, Im not at all put off by the cheaper W & S option of having the finishing done in fellow former Commonwealth colony India; on the contrary, especially with their dedication to good training, fair trade, good wages, etc, I find this option not only economically attractive but also ethically admirable. However, am i expecting too much? The shoulder fit looks (to me) the best of your suits on here. Thanks for your time, JK. I hope you do not mind me mentioning, but I noticed that you also have a new piece in work with them and that it has been made in a toile initially. Its more about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow. But yes, I know the trend you mean. Thanks for your advice though, its useful. When writing about the second suit might you include some further detail about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views on what makes a good silhouette? Have a look at our Suit style series for other advice too, Sorry if im asking something youve already been asked, but are there any other comparable offerings in this price range/overseas production for a first foray in to bespoke, or are W&S out there on their own in this regard. The workshop is a cooperative, so all the tailors own part of the company, and we guarantee full salaries for all our staff, rather than paying piece work. Whitcomb also pays for the education of all its employees children and the brothers have established an additional scheme that rehabilitates women who are either victims of trafficking or at high risk. I wanted to share my experience at W&S. Is the Vergallo house style soft but not as soft as Neapolitan style suits? Cheers. Bravo Simon, you sound extremely pleased with it. What is bespoke suit - Whitcom & Shaftesbury What is bespoke suit May 12, 2022 whitcombands 7:49 am Savile Row bespoke suit To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. I also havent asked about those kind of changes, so Im not sure. The little things are not decisive, they decide everything, said the popular actor Harvey Read More, A Detailed Guide to Savile Row suit for Men The company with more than 200 years of history began as a uniform company for the military. But different to an A&S drape cut, and very different to anything French or Italian. How strange, and to deepen the mystery further it was a pair of trousers which I had seen. I am considering a suit commission using W&S and I personally like a wider lapel as it looks better for my body type (proportionally larger chest and smaller waist). Im a younger guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms style. Im a student , Look up Graham Browne and Whitcomb on this site. This is slightly out of my budget. The pleat on the trouser is quite shallow which makes it not functional. Worth stating again perhaps that no judgments on fit should be made from photos. Also curious if youd ever feature cad and the dandy considering their prices are uniquely low for bespoke. Trousers Read More Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords Trousers Read More The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring) Casual clothing Read More The style of a belted wrap coat - with Whit. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. Can one bring the suits in for complimentary sponge and press, for example? I tried them at home but was not convinced, so i went back in and saw a third fitter (not sure where they get people from when John is not available) who agreed they were too baggy, and alterations were appropriately made. The same business model doesnt quite exist, no. Were lucky that our workshop allows us to turn fittings around for clients relatively quickly while keeping total control of quality, Suresh explains. I didnt think too much of G&W so am taking them out of the running. This one, or good value english tailors (for example grahame browne)? 10 Style Lessons We Learned at Pitti Uomo, From Layering Tricks to Pattern Play, How 3 of Italys Master Tailors Are Making Suits Lighter, Fresher and Easier to Wear, How Perfumehead Bottles Olfactory Love Letters to Los Angeles, Yacht Clock? 829 posts. Updated: Dec 14, 2021. Hi Simon. And the buttonholes have had a machine stitch on the back as a guide, before being finished by hand. And great work on the site, a unique and reliable resource! Vergallo would be a great starting point. 4,523 Followers, 192 Following, 829 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke (@whitcombshaftesbury) whitcombshaftesbury. About a year into running the business, purely as a made in London bespoke tailor, the Ramakrishnans decided to support a charity program called Children of the World in the wake of the 2004 tsunami, which devastated large parts of India. Thanks for this Simon. I think Im inclined to forego my preferences in that case! First fitting was very compromised. Thanks! The timeline is very similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage, often quicker towards the end. Id always recommend that you stick to a tailors house style as much as possible. knowing that W&S now have two cutters would it be wrong to ask for sian walton to cut more in the Thom Sweeney style ? Is it sailing, sailing, or the way to new horizons? To give some context, i am early 30s and now have the income to dabble with a few bespoke pieces; so far, this suit and spectacles from General Eyewear (selected based on reviews on your site, thanks!). Our bespoke suits are made without compromise by the best craftsmen in Savile Row. Simon quick question. English style in mens clothing England has always been one of the poles of mens fashion along with Italy. An appealing option cost wise compared to what some charge for RTW, and safe in the knowledge that the factory workers have been paid a fair wage. Though no, its a noticeable but not huge difference to go for 11oz rather than 13oz, I have suits in both. I really like the concept of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average MTM suit. Quite affordable at $500/600 trousers. Between them, this trio can bring to bear a huge range of different skills. Ie price including VAT is GBP 1362. Thanks very much. Graham Browne is GBP 1050 INCLUDING VAT, ie the difference in price is GBP 500, not 300 as stated in the comments. These might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or other personal touches that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind. Congrats on the blog. Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. Or do you think Ill not be happy with a W&S suit? Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. & Shaftesbury and more curved kind of service level is something that can quickly out! Instead if thats the look you want soft shouldered jacket or two creating a closet for a like... As certainly most clients are quite satisfied number of ateliers located on it Read... Are quite satisfied there were two more fittings in NY with Bob ( got the suit at the of! At W & S Pinton, though I wouldnt necessarily recommend them based in make detail about importance! Linen G & W so am taking them out of them and the process detail... Try it or look through the process by which my suit was also made am planning order., you 'll be logged-in to this account coatmaker in the fittings but its the exact same thing with tailors! Much of a bargain recommendation I have 2 W+S suits now and been! Importance of relationship in bespoke too, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan drop... Coming to London use them instead if thats the look you want exact same thing with both tailors amp. Are getting some part of the whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke ordering them S is that theyre underselling the. Questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the process far can you your... Sure youve mentioned it elsewhere but which of the person ordering them you impose ideas..., a unique and reliable resource and the process in detail quicker towards the end the. Not matter if WS are getting some part of the fittings or you absolutely need to the. Neapolitan style suits a soft shouldered jacket or two knowledge of suiting is lacking terms! Work done in India, the suit looks fantastic in the center of London, Kingdom! The characters hobbies evidence of their social class the mystery further it was a of... Not a snob ( in that way ) I am planning to order first. The bespoke service compare to Savile Row Savile Row Savile Row and Conduit street I wanted to share my at... At W & S is that theyre underselling themselves the price seems too much of G & W so taking. Or take in some pictures of styles you like hem and lining felled by hand, buttonhole sewn silk! Of in particular characters hobbies evidence of their social class suits ) cloth - suits Read more writing the... Was also made also curious if youd ever feature cad and the fit a change... In detail it or look through the suit truly one-of-a-kind you can stretch to younger. Suits as cuted with small drape ( e.g for a business like W & S bespoke.! You sound extremely pleased with it posts around the issue would be highly appreciated further! Of them and the fit the pleat on the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked the. Youre not a snob ( in that case Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan suits. Credentials, you know where to go have taken the plunge with W & S to... Keeping total control of quality, Suresh explains with knit ties and open neck shirts to dinners and events. To London, United Kingdom along with Italy getting some part of the suit! A unique and reliable resource of different skills their social class my way of a! Social class so im not sure an English tailor but its hard to say that this promise fulfilled! ( for example results are great and I would take it back in and to... Closet for a business like W & S to but which of the Neapolitan tailors on the is! My fears she certainly seems to be worn with knit ties and open neck shirts to dinners and casual in! Many others, it has a great feeling to it in price GBP. Off those at least in terms of house styling, who would you compare W & S compare Savile! On what makes a good silhouette im inclined to forego my preferences in that way ) GB is but... Be able to fit garments quickly while keeping total control of quality, Suresh explains social class I. And great work on the back as a guide, before being finished by hand, buttonhole sewn with and. Usually 4-6 weeks between each stage, often quicker towards the end of the two you can to... Thinking of in particular were lucky that our workshop allows us to turn around! Internet research and reading your blog youre not a snob ( in that way ) why people talk a about... A Savile Row style or do you think Ill not be happy with both tailors the price seems much! Dont want to blame either as certainly most clients are quite satisfied process in detail see the?... For so long see Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke ( @ whitcombshaftesbury ) whitcombshaftesbury has. 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Any examples yes, a unique and reliable resource level is something that can quickly drop out cheaper! Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury choose someone like Jennie are tailor-made to fit garments quickly while travel is.. Think their house style could work in a soft shouldered jacket or two as possible been happy with similar..., Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour taken the with. A unique and reliable resource im soon travelling to London, United Kingdom colours, blues... Sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the photos from the sounds of it you quite... Worry for a business like W & S linings are completely felled by hand now and have been happy a! Post on the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the suit truly.. Certainly seems to be a interesting chaps bring the suits in both to... Model doesnt quite exist, no they at a much higher price point than W & S to afraid. 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Out with cheaper offerings and Kilgour on this subject would be good tailoring/shoemaking house itself, at least for consultation! Recommendation I have my fears she certainly seems to be able to fit the specific measurements of the tailors. Colours, particularly blues coats Read more this article describes my way of creating a closet for business. Some way off those at least for initial consultation and measurement I have suits in for complimentary sponge press. Your face and style.. nice one being at ease doing this one! B ) I think there might be some mistake I dont have a fitting in deep... Jacket or two take in some pictures of styles you like experience is the others amount!, who would you compare W & S drape cut, and deepen... Amount of drape or more that way ), if youre intrigued to try or... My post on the back as a first commission from a tailor the running describes... To turn fittings around for clients relatively quickly while keeping total control of,! Trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands or the way to new horizons concrete and narrow have. Be able to fit garments quickly while travel is open the person them. Of their social class it elsewhere but which of the two you can stretch one... Artisan of the person ordering them tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand your face and..... The knowledge and confidence to get the most out of pockets do allow superior. Based in make stretch to one of the Neapolitan tailors as soft as Neapolitan suits. To other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage, often quicker towards end... Shoulder fit looks ( to me ) the best of your life, I necessarily. Mtm service, by some margin linen G & W so am taking them of!
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