Now you're all set to weigh out ingredients. You will also need to heat and hold a saucepan of plain distilled water. Using your disinfected soup ladle, add the water/glycerin to the oils, while stirring with your disinfected spoon. My lotion had solidify in minutes of combining the water and oil phase. Cut hard oils with your disinfected knife. Since few of us can afford to do that, we use a preservative and use GMP with great care. Start by heating your butter to approximately 120 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit. This one is still solid, but were starting to get some give. Here's a general formula for creating lotion: 70-80% Distilled Water. Just bought some finally, last week. Cetearyl Alcohol. Cetyl alcohol. Thank you for another great post! Thats pretty cool! Is there something similar to cetyl alcohol thats derived from something other than coconut? Works well with: Most other emulsifiers. Add water & oil phase ingredients into their own containers. In the list at the end of this article, I have given the absorption rates of most of the oils listed. One reason my recipe includes cetyl alcohol is because it is usually considered better to use BTMS-50, rather than BTMS-25, since BTMS-50 is more stable. thanks. It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. Because I had access to so much great information, I was able to make a really great body butter that my daughter says is the best she's ever used. Yup, many times Heres one. How odd indeed. Im wondering if I were to put a little in my whipped shea butter would it give it more stability? Label, date, and cap your products when cooled to room temperature. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Hi Marie, I use stearic acid at 8% already, so how much should I increase it to to drop the beeswax and incorporate cetyl alcohol? I followed this recipe. I did not have the DL panthenol on me so I omitted this. Spray your gloves again. 8 g cetyl alcohol; 4 drops Vitamin E oil; Cool Phase Ingredients. If theres something else in there, that might explain it, but I did find some Cetyl Alcohol Wax Beads online with an INCI of just cetyl alcohol, so Im not entirely certain what you are working with. If cetyl alcohol is functioning as the main thickener in an anhydrous product, keep in mind that it will also be contributing to the silky finish of the product as well as the firmness. Coconut derivatives are in nearly EVERYTHING for sensitive skin! The only other thing I changed from your recipe was leave out the silk and put some Ectoin into it. I can scrape up larger flakes (almost curls) with my finger nail. The slip is good (especially if youre used to working with waxthere actually is slip, not skid!). Cetearyl Alcohol/Ceteareth-20. 4. These include cetyl, stearyl, and cetearyl alcohol, which are derived from fats. (Oil phase ingredients just need to be melted; you do not need to hold them at 165 F. for 20 minutes, as you do the water phase ingredients.). Details will be found on the suppliers MSDS data sheet. Happy making . During my down time, I am reformating my products and replace harsh Ingredients with better ones. Add the shea butter. Once all the water is in there, stick blend with your disinfected stick blender. I also have dry skin so this is very interesting to me. I did an experiment with cetyl alcohol tonight. The mixture will start out thin but will be quite thick once it's cooled to 100 F. Now weigh out your fragrance and Liquid Germall Plus in disinfected containers, add them to the mixture, and stick blend the heck out of it. Spray and wipe down your digital scale (do the underside too), and set it on your work surface. Although acceptable at 0.5 to 10%, it is typically used at <1.5% in facial emulsionshigher percentages can feel too hydrating, as if you are almost sweating. If you'd like to make a simple product with what you have at hand, it's worth considering. If 1:1 is WAY too much, then start experimenting with thinning it out. Perhaps try this recipe? One of them is almost symptom-free during the summer, but when winter sets in, her legs, in particular, are so itchy that she often scratches them raw. Method: In a heat-resistant beaker, add ingredients from phase A. DL-Panthenol is nice, but should not change the texture. . I agree with Belinda these experiments really help us understand the products we are using better. Prior to using Cetyl Alcohol Raw Material, a skin test is recommended. Thank you for doing this experiment! Based on your cetyl alcohol vs beeswax comments, can I eliminate beeswax from my deodorant recipe and incorporate cetyl alcohol in its place? Special Price R79.99 (6) +-Add to Basket . I dont work with dangerous or toxic ingredients! How to Make It. Super helpful blog post, thanks! Anywho I ordered some cetyl alcohol and made your Lemon Chiffon Body and Hand Lotion. Have fun! 1-30% (lower amounts are typically for emulsions, higher amounts are typically for anhydrous products) Texture. It also gives the nice silky finish to the lotion as compared to steraic acid that gives a rich-thick feeling. Please note that nothing on this site has been designed or tested for large scale manufacturing or re-sale, and attempting to sell anything made from recipes on this website is a bit foolish and at your own risk. I just purchased my first bag of cetyl alcohol. If you are new to making lotions and body butters, your first question will be, "What exactly are these ingredients Emmajane speaks of?". Ive been using cetyl alcohol but didnt realize just how awesome this product is. Typically any sort of tiny dot or lump in a concoction is a solid butter going grainy, BUT there are no solid butters in that lotion AND Ive never had that happen in a lotionjust 100% anhydrous products. Muchlove, suki, Thanks for the update, Suki! I did a search of the swiftcraftymonkey blog, on using milk in lotions, and could find no recipes using milk. I also love how inexpensive this ingredient is . (My customers would never pay for this, is my guess.) It is not necessary to hold the oils at 165 F. for 20 minutes. I dont recommend using a true wax as an alternative for cetyl alcohol. I also use ewax and stearic acid. So I included cetyl alcohol to give the body butter the level of stability you would get with BTMS-50. Hey! A lightweight body lotion with moisturizing shea butter and vitamins c & e that soothes and hydrates skin. As far as absorption goes, I've always found my product satisfactory. If you want to be sure that you are not selling germ-laden body-care products, or giving them away to your loved ones, it is important to prepare them in an antiseptic environment. ), 15 ounces mango butter, shea butter, or cocoa butter (You could use a solid oil like coconut oil or lard, or a mixture of solid oils and butters, but lard or coconut oil in large amounts will probably make your product feel greasy.). Your email address will not be published. I added a bag of cetyl alcohol to my DIY cupboard sometime last summer, and ever since then Ive been dabbling with it; adding a little bit to this lotion or that bar, just for a bit of fun. These shavings disappear into my skin when I massage them in, but in a rather odd way. Many thanks. Its typical use level in most cream type formulas is 2-3%. One of the biggest issues with trying to use a wax like beeswax instead of cetyl alcohol is that it only does one of the things cetyl alcohol doesthe thickeningand then does the opposite in terms of slip and glide. I wonder how cetyl alcohol and stearic acid feel or work differently on skin? Water (Aqua) (Eau), Isopropyl Myristate, Stearic Acid, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Cetyl Alcohol, Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax (Candelilla Cera) (Cire de candelilla), Glycerin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Glyceryl . I have a question about sourcing cetyl alcohol. Shown below is the famous lotion and body butter cheat sheet, which gives ingredient ratios for making several skin-care products. The reason for the increased emulsifier is that I used BTMS-25 instead of BTMS-50. My hair loved it and am actually able to go a full day and a half without washing my hair before it begins to look like rubbish. Emulsifiers are products that allow oil and water to mix into a stable emulsion. Its typical use level in most cream type formulas is 2-3%. Heat Phase A to 176F and hold while Phase B is heating. Thanks. Chamomile Body Butter Misadventures Part 4. It's worth mentioning, though, that some people think lard is a very good product in skincare since it is very similar to human sebum. Are they interchangeable in a recipe such as lotion? Sample 5: 10% oil, 15% butter, 5% wax and 5% Montanov 202. Turn the stove-top to medium heat, placing the double boiler on top of the heat. I also added one ounce of meadowfoam oil. What a great idea! Now I want it in alll the things! Moisture Cream; Moisture Lotion; Body Butter; Cleanser; Face Mask; Skin Peels In a recipe, we use other things like silicones, butters, liquid emulsifiers.. Awwww yeah. The second part of your question is like asking which is better, butter or oilits all a big it depends! Thanks, Aisha! Once fully melted, heat for 20 . Unfortunately this is an impossible question to answersomething akin to how much salt should I add to a soup to make it taste good? I think the extra SL and glycerin were a good idea too. Hi! For the soft oils, use about half fast-absorbing and half slow-absorbing oils. Marie, the only question i have is: is Cetyl Alcohol dangerous, or toxic for your skin? Still very silky, no tack or stickiness of any kind. Consistency is key- in life, as it is in DIY natural deodorant. I love the skin feel of the two blended! Thank you Marie! So if your oil phase is 15% or your lotion, the e-wax should be at 3.75%. This ingredient is the quiet achiever in your emulsion, one that people never used to really think about much until recently. Note: Remember that quite a bit of water is lost through evaporation during the Heat and Hold Phase. And am thinking of doing my own with melt and pour soap. Welcome & happy making . Perhaps the olive oil has worse slip than the cetyl alcohol? I tried swaping out the cetyl alcohol for mango butter in one of my lotion recipes and good lord! D-L Panthenol, aka Pro-Vitamin B5, is a stable lit racemic mixture of D-Panthenol and L-Panthenol. I follow you on YouTube and IG. Hi Marie, I have given it some more thought and I am pretty sure its the Ectoin (supposed to be anti aging. A small percentage of people may experience contact allergies (red or inflamed skin . You could also add maybe an extra ounce of liquid oils--choosing one that absorbs quickly. Ingredients. What a wonderful resource for someone who wants to make body butter. Taken altogether, these amounts of cetyl alcohol and BTMS-25 would make an overly thick body butter (in that you'd have a hard time stick-blending it), but it is softened by the addition of sodium lactate. If you want to evaluate how such a substitution will likely work out, see how these substitutions plug in to the "Lotion and Body Butter Cheat Sheet.". Products to Use in. Cetyl alcohol is. Medium-absorbing oils don't need to be balanced. Thickeners are self-explanatory, I guess. Running my finger over the surface quickly starts to melt the mixture and results in some lovely, silky slip. Panthenol also works with DMAE in the production of acetylcholine which firms and tones the skin.Both D-Panthenol and DL-Panthenol are equally effective for moisturization, improvement of hair structure and adding luster and sheen to the hair. Thanks Marie my mentor ! I have made changes in this recipe over time, but none of them were in the amount of stearic acid. This is such detail info and I thank you sooo much for it. Happy making! Of course, humectant additives are also very good: glycerin, sodium lactate, honeyquat, propylene glycol, and sodium pca. Who should use it: In general, anyone who doesn't have an allergy can safely use cetearyl alcohol. Cetyl Alcohol must never be used near the eyes, inner nose, and ears, or on any other . I love it! It is most commonly found in shampoos and conditioners, since it can make hair feel smooth and soft. Designed by Elegant Themes | Powered by WordPress, You'll need to upload them to a free image hosting service first. Hi! Whole Elise. Whip using a handheld mixer or stand mixer until smooth and airy. Thank you! When you are customizing a lotion or body butter, keep in mind that high amounts of slow-absorbing oils will make your product feel greasy. So that's the reason for that--if that makes sense. Cas Number. Maximum Usage Level. Soothing Creamy Facial Cleanser. Set aside a large, microwave-safe bowl or cup, then pour in 2.7 fl oz (80 mL) of oil, 1 fl oz (30 mL) of stearic acid, and 1.2 fl oz (35 mL) of cetyl alcohol. In a small container, add the glycerin. For example, Honeyquat and DL-Panthenolare heat-sensitive and so must be added to the cool-down phase, but sodium lactate is water-soluble and not heat sensitive and so goes into the water phase. Bacteria and fungi grow and flourish in such mixtures, and the product will usually show no visible sign of spoilage even when the level of contamination is very high--high enough that using the product could result in an infection. It will firm up over the next 24 hours. It offers the most wonderful slip and finish, even in high concentrationsits the complete opposite of wax in that regard, Its quite a powerful thickener, though definitely not as strong as the waxes; Im ok with that as its still nice in high concentrations, so I can use lots of it and get the same level of thickening/hardening that Id get from wax without the awful texture side effects, Itll create oil-gel-ish concoctions at 1:3+. Weigh mango and cupuacu butters in a heat-resistant glass measuring cup, along with cetyl alcohol, macadamia nut oil, and tapioca starch. What a difference! Using co-emulsifiers can also help. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on November 09, 2019: Some people prefer to make body butter using only oils, butters, and waxes. Learn more about cetearyl alcohol here. Its typical use level in most cream type formulas is 2-3%. I dont really care about these things too much, so I use it in handcream, hahaha, but am always curious). Thanks, Belinda! The local store I use has stearic acid but not cetyl alcohol , Ill have to do one with stearic acid in the future but you could, too . Because we didn't set out to make pit paste, deodorizing powder or DIY deodorant spray, we needed to introduce some key ingredients to keep the deodorant stick consistency stable: thick enough to apply . Your experiments help so much, we might be thinking I wonder what a bit more would do to this but when you do a precise 3:1 to 1:6, we have all the stats ready done for us. The thickener (cetyl alcohol) is about 1.3% instead of 3%. 1% Vitamin E. Ive found a soap containing palm kernel oil that works for me. You will want to use your disinfected rubber scraper to scrape the sides of the pan into the middle, to help mix everything evenly. But you might try increasing the liquids in the water phase a little. None of the other ingredients I suggest as additions to my body butter recipe are far outside the neutral pH range. Im so glad you found this useful and that youre enjoying that lovely lotion . You could increase the water phase by adding aloe vera or a hydrosol, or just by adding more distilled water. 36653-82-4. One bit of valuable information the New Directions Aromatics website provides is the Absorption rates of various oils. You can always add scent to your formulations such as essential oils or a fragrance oil, but keep the scent up to 1% as this amount is usually more than enough. So, the very basic whipped body butter formula is this: 40-70% Butter. I want my body butter to come out creamy, I do not want it to harden after it sits, I can use ewax with the oils to make it thick and creamy, I don't want to use water in my body butter. A small remaining percentage is a moisturizer. Im afraid I know of no such guide, but as you are discovering it is quite effective in small amounts. Its fantastic. So I've.= basically used BTMS-25 to re-create BTMS-50. The surface is still firm, but once I press through its clear theres a harder layer on top and the underbits and soft and a bit gooey. Question: Do I need Germall Plus in my whipped butter mix? (I'd be scared to increase it more than I already did.) , Sadly Ive got nothing for you, but maybe another reader will . 1:4 is 1 gram cetyl alcohol, 4 grams olive oil. How often can you use it: Daily. I cant eat it or apply it topically. The lotion was very runny which worked great in a pump bottle! Recommended Usage Rate: 2% - 5% used in the cooling phase of formulation.Ingredient Function: Humectant/thickener/conditioning agent/antistatic agent.Excellent for use as a cationic conditioning agent to create moisturizing hair conditioners, thickeners, detanglers, anti-static and other hair care treatments, especially leave-in conditioners and hair masks, due to the extreme humectant (moisture booster and binder) properties provided. Since I cant get any suspension bases here. Its still lovely, just much more familiar. This . I really love these quick guide posts . Finally I wanna try it. Cetostearyl Alcohol; CAS# 036653-82-4; Cetyl Alcohol; Stearyl Alcohol. You should definitely get some, cause where were using it, nothing else compares. It can crystallize and/or settle out in thinner anhydrous products. Here's why: While your water phase ingredients are heating, some water will be lost to evaporation. I tend to use cetyl alcohol when I do choose to use a fatty alcohol with it. Im one of those rare people who cant enjoy all the coconut goodness. There need be no more concern about applying body butters to the skin than about applying plain oils to the skin. Start with the emulsifying wax Olivem1000. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on June 24, 2017: Lisa, I think substituting aloe vera, floral teas, and hydrosols (I'd love to use rosewater) is wonderful! Someday I will have that kind of money! Melt the oils, butters, and waxes over a double boiler (or in the microwave, if you prefer). If I chose BTMS 50, do I omit Cetyl alcohol? Now you can transfer the body butter to jars. Yes to both; Im actually experimenting with the second one right now It is helping reduce the skid that can come with lots of beeswax, and is creating a faster absorbing product! Once dispersed, xantham is added to propanediol to wet and then to water/carbomer at 1400 rpm. it's a nice touch, but not critical. Make your own body butter with beeswax. Spray each jar and lid with IPA and wipe with paper towels. I have the impression you could preserve them by going up to 0.5% on the Liquid Germall Plus. Maybe the wax part in those beads? These specific ones are from a Canadian kitchen supply shop, so unless you live in Toronto thats not much help, but glass prep cups are widely available and super useful! Ceterayl alcohol and Cetyl alcohol are often used as co-emulsifiers. Process. Origin. But have been using Ectoin several times in lotions already and never anything happened. 35-40 degrees Celsius add the preservative. Depending on the formulation it can be a lot more complex than that, especially if its an emulsion and different phase sizes and emulsifier types are also at play. Its quite similar than Skinchakras sample in terms of look and action + far more easy to make and customize (used squeeze bottle). Once these ingredients for your whipped body butter recipe have melted, remove from heat. Have you ever tried having both stearic acid and cetyl alcohol in an anhydrous product? That clump is surprisingly soft when I pick it up given how firm the mixture was in the dish on its own. Im new to the skin care world and I have an Etsy shop. Lotion and Body Butter Cheat Sheet, page 1, https://www.cheatography.com/emmajane/cheat-sheets/ingredient-ratios-for-lotion-making/, Lotion and Body Butter Cheat Sheet, page 2. Marie have you tried cetyl alcohol in body/shave soap? Now that you know those basics, we are ready to move on to more basics. If you want a glide lotion for your body or face, you'll want to use cetyl alcohol. Vegetable. Remove the container from the heat. by Marie | May 11, 2017 | Quick Guides, The Basics | 92 comments. The cetyl alcohol amount was decreased because of the increased amount of BTMS-25. Anyway, the skinny on this is that BTMS-50 is better because: 1. Measure out shea butter using a digital kitchen scale into medium sized bowl. She's tried many, many products over the years, suggested by friends who were fellow sufferers of dry skin. So the racemic D, L-Panthenol has only half of the physiological activity of D-Panthenol in skincare.Studies have shown D-Panthenol promotes stimulation of epithelization, granulation, mitigation of itching and has an anti-inflammatory effect. I had made it before but without the CA. I love how you took time to do this..it is a very good lesson . Use a preservative, unless you plan to keep the product refrigerated and use it up within one week. It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. Is it the Cetyl Alcohol or the amount that Im using? First try and Im loving the results. Include it in your heated oil phase; it needs to be melted into products. Instructions. Cetyl alcohol = thickener. How do you think this compares with Cera Bellina wax for slip and gel? 2. Thank you Marie! Is the BTMS unnecessary when using cetyl alcohol? Add mango butter, kokum butter and cetyl alcohol to a heat safe container and melt in a double boiler. Then there are also some very spendy additives that I have not yet experimented with, such as hyaluronic acid and squalane. Print this page. 5. It should just be cetyl alcohol. Here is a list of other additives I have not used in a final product--just experimentally that I think might be useful in formulating your own product. Its popping up in recipes and I figured if I want to have fun, Id better grab some. Add the stearic acid. It vanishes into the skin but never really melts. And helpful! Its typical use level in most cream type formulas is 2-3%. If you add some colorant (such as maybe a little pink mica) at this point, you will be fairly confident that everything is mixed in evenly, because you'll be able to see that the mica is evenly mixed. 50g Fractionated Coconut Oil; 37.5g Brazil Nut Oil; 2.5g Vitamin E Oil; 2.5g Essential Oils (Optional Fragrance) . Combine in a large glass bowl. 2. I don't expect it to absorb instantly, though it does absorb fairly quickly without feeling greasy. Faithful to Nature Mango Body Butter. I love this experiment. It probably doesn't, but it helps to realize that every alteration in a basic recipe will affect the end texture of the final product. I find oils thickened with cetyl alcohol feel like viscous oils, while oils thickened with stearic acid feel like butters. Too much could make your product too thick. Ill include it in lotions with smaller oil phases to give them body without added weight, and in anhydrous products to make them silkier. I sure love it and would highly recommend itits inexpensive, versatile, and has a long shelf life. For starters, it is 70% water, rather than 60%. After holding the water phase ingredients at 165 F. for 20 minutes, put your gloves back on a spray them with IPA. I read somewhere that you can use cetyl alcohol or stearic acid in body butters to help with the over texture and melt point. If the product is going bad, though, cetyl alcohol isnt going to fix itand if its an emulsion it is too late to add any. Ive found wax in lotions (especially lighter ones) tends to create a tacky end product thats rather disappointing. Thank you! The use of emulsifying wax will do just that - bind your oils and water together on a molecular level with the end result becoming lotion or cream. These were simple preparations of my own invention, which were just oil-and-water emulsions, using liquid lecithin as the emulsifier. Any input before I set up this experiment. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on December 31, 2017: Mary, I may have mentioned this in the article, but I was told by someone very knowledgeable that the best things to combat dry skin are oils that contain gamma-linolenic acid (GLA). This experiment came to my mind when I designed and made cetyl alcohol thickened oilgel to milk scrub yesterday. Then weigh out the sweet almond oil and fragrance oil, and stir into the melted butters and wax. Here is a listing of the absorption rates of several oils. A firm surface gives way relatively easily to a translucent oil gel underbelly that is really neat! Tsk, tsk! There is probably a lot of goop on the outsides. Cetyl alcohol offers thickening, but more than that, it also improves the slip and glide of lotions. Thanks, Sharon! Pour into a tub-style container. Cool down and at approx. I love these posts! It is often suggested that if you make this substitution, you will need to use double the amount. I wonder if you or any of your followers know of a supplier that carries some that isnt made from palm oil. that Marie extols the virtues of in her awesome c.a. 8% for a cream. Because its a fatty alcohol its also an emollient, and its one that feels downright lovely on the skin at that! This is an awesome collection of information with a done for me recipe. Cetearyl alcohol makes for a heavier, fluffier end product, so keep that in mind. I can scrape up some small, flakey shavings with a finger nail. A fatty alcohol we use as a thickener in lotions, salves, body butters, and more. Now remove the pans from heat and slowly add the water and glycerin to the pan of melted oils, stirring continually. Cant taste anything, no wonder there, but it seems to be something crystallized. This is also when you add the preservative. (for SE use 6%) 6.3g Cetyl Alcohol; Cool Down. Cetearyl Alcohol: any fatty alcohol will work (e.g. I will continue to tweak the recipe till I get the desired consistency. The alcohols people typically worry about in skin care products are volatile liquid alcohols likeethanol or isopropyl alcohol. This way you avoid damaging the more delicate liquid oils. It's really a matter of preference. This comparison has been wonderful!! What are co-emulsifiers? Can you add a bit of cetyl alcohol to a salve (only waxes and oils)? Phase C. Iscaguard PEG- 1%. #2. the not so good: People often identify alcohols with drying out the skin or hair. Lotions aside, after this experiment and the project thatll be out on the 29th of this month, Im really excited about the 100% oil based applications of cetyl alcohol. 1:4 is 1 gram cetyl alcohol, 4 grams olive oil. BTMS-25 is 25% BTMS and 75% Cetearyl Alcohol. (Spray your gloves again.) Taken altogether, these amounts of cetyl alcohol and BTMS-25 would make an overly thick body butter (in that you'd have a hard time stick-blending it), but it is softened by the addition of sodium lactate. I just found som CA that bought months ago and forgot about it so Ill be using it in my lotion tomorrow. Add the stearic acid. (I don't know if this really comes out cheaper or not.). It's a white, waxy mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, both fatty alcohols. The oil that has the highest percentage of GLA is borage oil. Ensure the ceteryl alcohol is fully dissolved into your oil stage (use agitation if required) in order to minimise the risk of graininess in your final formulation. Answer: If your recipe doesn't contain water and is just a mixture of butters and oils, you do not need a preservative. BTMS is a pretty good thickener in its own right. Have you ever used it in a body butter? As you stir, add in the oil until both ingredients are fully integrated into each other. It hardens with the strength of a wax, but offers incredible slip and a wonderful, almost silicone-like finish that is beyond luxurious and impossible to achieve with waxes. Please note that nothing on this site has been designed or tested for large scale manufacturing or re-sale, and attempting to sell anything made from recipes on this website is a bit foolish and at your own risk. I apologize for all of the errors in my message above. According to Susan, who has worked with it as a standalone, it sounds like they should work pretty well as alternatives , I really liked this ..the visuals were great !
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